Category Archives: South America & Caribbean

As the Collas and Incas Lay Dying – Contemplating the Ruins of Sillustani

Continuing our pre-Inca and Inca cultural immersion, one of today’s highlights was a visit to the ruins of Sillustani, a burial site consisting of funerary towers located on a lakeside peninsula high in the Andean plateau.

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The Land of Lake Titicaca

As we made our way to Lake Titicaca yesterday, on a “highway” that we Americans would consider just a regular road except for the llamas, alpacas and mountainous landscape all around us, we stopped at the town of Racqui, the home of another sacred Inca temple called Wiraqocha.

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What the Incas Have in Common with Asterix & Obelix

The highlight of yesterday’s sightseeing was an excursion to another Inca ruin, Sacsayhuaman, which served primarily as a religious site until the Spaniards invaded, when it became a fortress to defend against the Conquistadors. The foreign explorers, who arrived in Peru looking for El Dorado after hearing that its people were covered in gold, handily beat the Incas because the Incas were not warriors. Indeed, it sounds like any victories the Incas enjoyed against the Spaniards were due more to luck than any real strategic skill. They focused on agriculture and the worship of their gods, and were generally a peaceful people unless provoked or unless the indigenous tribes refused to accept their rule.

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Sacred Valley and the Power of Women

Last evening a “paco” (which means priest in the local dialect) performed a tribute to Pachamama, aka Mother Earth, in an old church located on the grounds of the hotel, which was once a convent. Using locally farmed ingredients such as coca leaves, quinoa and rice, as well as cookies and sprinkles – because, according to him, women like sweets and Mother Earth is a woman – he created a colorful sacrificial package for the Andean peoples’ revered goddess, which he then burned while performing a ritual chant. As an atheist, I generally have no use for such spiritual gobbledygook.  However, when such a ceremony is performed in a setting as magnificent as this, it’s hard to resist the mystical incantations of a millenias-old civilization.

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The Center of the World: Cusco and the Sacred Valley

Like roosters, we were up at the crack of dawn to catch our flight to Cusco. In what was one of the most gorgeous approaches to an airport I’ve ever experienced, we flew into the city with the Andes on either side. It was as if the mountains were hugging the plane and it was beautiful and humbling.

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